Using a word to tell your dog to stay is repetitive if you have already decided to teach your dog that the words “sit,” “down,” and “stand” mean to stay in position until released or asked to do something else. But feel free to use the word “stay” if it makes you happy.
A sit-stay is useful when something is going on and you need short-term control. A down-stay is useful for long-term control. A stand-stay is helpful for having your dog stand still for an examination or grooming.
Using the capturing and lure/reward methods, just wait to reward for the sits, downs, or stands that are incrementally longer. Pure simplicity!
For example, ask your dog to sit, and mark and reward him when he does. The next time, wait for your dog to remain sitting for a full second before marking and rewarding. If your dog gets up beforehand, just ask him to sit and try again. It should not take him long to figure out (without you yelling “stay!”) that staying in position is the way to get the reward.
When your dog is staying reliably for one second, wait for two seconds of sit- ting before marking and rewarding. Then go for three seconds, five, eight, ten, fifteen, twenty, and so on. Vary the length of time you ask your dog to stay, some- times decreasing to a level far below your goal. For example, if he is becoming reliable with a thirty-second down-stay, you should still frequently ask and reward him for three- to ten-second stays. With this approach, it will surprise you how quickly your dog learns quite lengthy stays.
Hands-off reward methods create a good foundation for off-leash distance control.
As you make any task more difficult, be sure to follow it with an extra-generous reward. So, if your dog is holding a stay for fifteen seconds for the first time, he might deserve a jackpot reward of three tiny treats as opposed to the typical one.
Proofing Stays
The process of proofing your dog’s stays — or making sure that he focuses on you no matter what the circumstances — comprises the three D’s:
- Increasing the duration
- Increasing the distractions
- Increasing the distractions
Eventually, your dog will understand that he is to stay in position for an ex- tended period when there are numerous distractions, while he remains a distance away from you. But you need to work on each component separately and gradually. Building duration, distractions, and distance is like turning up the volume on a stereo. If you raise the level too high too fast, your dog won’t be able to concentrate on what you are asking him to do. Make things easier on yourself and your dog: go slowly. When you increase the difficulty of one D, decrease the difficulty of another. So if you have built up to a reliable ten second stay and are now working on adding a distraction, be sure to decrease the duration to a brief moment or two. Basically, with each increase in duration, added distraction, or added bit of distance, you are asking more of your dog. So do your best to set him up for success by making some other part of the equation easier, whether it be lessening the other D’s or in- creasing the value of the rewards your dog can earn.
Doubles, Anyone?
Playing the training game with two handlers at once can be very helpful, especially if you are working on distance and distractions. One person can stay next to the dog to help and reward him, while the other person moves a distance away and/or creates distractions.
Increasing the Duration
By simply delaying the reward, you will increase the length of time your dog stays in the required position. Hold on to that piece of food for two seconds and mark the behavior of staying in that position with a click or a “yes” and reward. Then see if you can hold on to the kibble for four seconds. If your dog gets up, either ask him to get back into position (sit, down, or stand) again or simply ignore him and wait for him to figure it out. (This is another time when it’s good to have your dog on a leash that you’re stepping on or that’s connected to a stationary object.)
Remember, stays are much harder for your dog in the presence of a single distraction. So keep the distance and duration short and up the level of rewards.
Increasing the Distractions
Start training your dog with as few distractions as possible. Then gradually increase them, one by one, until your dog responds reliably no matter what the distraction.
Start with a very mild distraction. What is considered mild will vary from dog to dog. For some, the presence of a tennis ball rolling across the floor is enough to send them skyrocketing to the moon, while others wouldn’t bat an eye. You know your dog best, so start off with something he isn’t very interested in.
As you add distractions, increase the rewards and decrease the length of time. For example, for a dog who is able to do a nice thirty-second sit without new distractions, ask for a three-second sit in the presence of a tennis ball. At the same time, lavishly praise him and offer a nice food reward for his success.
Increasing the Distance
When you work on building up the distance you can walk away from your dog while he is sitting or lying down, remove distractions and decrease the length of time you ask him to hold a position. Move just one step away, and mark with a click or by saying “yes” and reward with a tiny treat if he stays. If he gets up, step back and ask him to sit or lie down again or wait for him to do so. Take a tiny step away again, and go right back to praise and reward him if he stays put. The next time, step two steps away for a short period. Then try three steps, five, eight, ten, and so on until you can walk far away and your dog stays put.
When proofing stays, increase your distance from your dog gradually and progressively.
Gradually increase the distance you move away, and don’t forget to increase the rewards as you ask for more difficult behavior. If at any point your dog gets up, don’t get mad at him. Calmly ask him for the appropriate position once more, or wait for him to figure out that he needs to offer it on his own.
Time and Training
Keep training sessions short, and stop while your dog still wants to play the training game. Short and frequent sessions are the best policy. Twenty-five three-minute training sessions a day will give you and your dog ample opportunity to build up reliability, even around enticing distractions. Setting aside an hour-long training session for your dog each day isn’t very realistic or effective. Doing so can make the process seem long and boring for you and your dog. Having a specific training time is great, but remember that your dog is really being trained every waking moment, whether you’re there or not.