Dog Training

In the wild, dogs live in dens and have their own way of going about things. But if you want your dog to live in your home with you, you must teach her the human way of living. Specifically, you have to teach your dog to appropriately redirect her normal and natural behaviors. Failing to learn where to relieve herself, what to chew, when to bark, when to jump up, and where to dig are the top reasons the relationship fails and people give up their dogs. Luckily, these techniques are so simple to teach that you and your dog are all but guaranteed to have a long and happy life together. 

What does a bark mean? Well, what does a word mean? The bark is a dog’s word, and it can mean many things. Your dog barks when she’s alerting you to an intruder, when she’s afraid or stressed, when she’s feeling playful, and when she’s bored. Barking is caused by the presence of stimuli (strange people, dogs, sights, or sounds) or the owner’s absence, and can be an attention-seeking mechanism. 

Most behavior problems are unintentionally encouraged during the first few weeks a puppy or dog is in her new home. For example, this puppy is learning that barking is a good way to be the center of attention. 

The easiest way to control barking is to socialize your dog so that she’s comfortable with lots of people, places, and things and to instill in her a strong chew- toy habit so that she is mentally and physically exercised and occupied. But, just as you would not attempt to completely silence a person, you shouldn’t try to completely silence your dog. Your dog just needs to learn some basic bark control — when it is appropriate and acceptable to bark and for how long. 

Regardless of the reason for your dog’s barking, your goal is to properly socialize your dog, teach your dog to focus on something other than barking, and teach your dog to speak and be quiet on command so that you can control when and for how long she barks. 

Alarm Barker 

Dogs who bark at the presence of intruders can be valuable assets. It’s ironic that barking dogs are such a problem in our society, inasmuch as barking as an alarm must have been one of the main reasons we domesticated dogs in the first place. Usually, it isn’t the barking that is a problem — it’s just that the dog is a little too enthusiastic. Most people want their dogs to let them know when someone has stepped onto the property. Barking becomes a problem only if the dog doesn’t settle down when you ask her to.

Until you have this problem under control, keep your dog on leash at all times when you are home to supervise her. This way, you have a gentle, effective means of preventing her from rushing to the door and barking uncontrollably. Teach your dog to bark and be quiet on cue and thereby have an on/off switch. To do so, invite three friends to come over for a speak-and-shush party, and within 30 minutes you’ll have the foundation of a well-trained barker and shusher. 

Have your dog’s dinner kibble on hand. Ask your dog to speak (request), in- struct your visitors to knock on the door when they hear you say this (stimulus), and let your dog know that barking was the right response by saying “thank you.” At this point, your dog may look a bit shocked. After all, she’s probably used to being yelled at when she barks. 

Now, to get her to be quiet, say “shush” (request) and waggle a very tasty treat in front of her nose. Once she sniffs the food, she’ll be quiet (she can’t sniff and bark at the same time), so give it to her as a reward. Repeat this process many times, and your dog will become increasingly aware of how much fun it is to speak on request and how rewarding it is to shush on request. 

Yard Barker 

Barking dogs are one of the most common complaints of urban and suburban neighbors. Obviously, a dog left outside will alert to all the visual and auditory stimuli. 

Dogs are usually relegated to the yard because they’re not house trained or chew-toy trained. If that’s the case, house train and chew-toy train your dog. Rescue her from the backyard and bring her into your home! 

Giving your dog a few well-stuffed chew toys is the easiest and most effective way to prevent barking. This way, she has something to think about other than barking. A well-stuffed chew toy will keep your dog busy for an hour or more (this means no time for barking). If you need to, put her food bowl away and feed her only from her chew toys. You’ll keep her very busy! 

No Yard Dogs, Please 

It’s not a great idea to leave your dog alone in your yard. Not only will her house training and manners deteriorate, but she’s also likely to learn and engage in activities you won’t appreciate, such as digging, barking, or escaping. Moreover, she’s vulnerable to a number of dangers, including being stolen, poisoned, harassed by passersby, or hurt by an animal that comes into the yard. 

Attention-Seeking Barker 

Many people inadvertently train their dogs to bark for attention by responding to barks and whines. This is especially true with young puppies and very tiny dogs whose little whimpers and whines bring their owners running. However, regardless of size, most dogs develop a formidable bark that is likely to become more demanding in nature as they learn to expect a response. What starts off as a soft little whimper can quickly turn into an ear-piercing shout — the dog’s way of saying “I want attention! And I want it now!” 

You can prevent your dog from learning that barking and whining is an effective way to get your attention simply by ignoring any vocalization. Admittedly, doing so can be difficult at first, but most dogs figure out quickly that vocalizing doesn’t work. They are also quick to figure out if it does work, so be careful not to reinforce this behavior occasionally by talking to or even looking at your dog when she barks for attention. 

If your dog has already been reinforced for barking for attention, you can teach her that it no longer works simply by starting fresh and ignoring her when she barks. When you’re relaxed and in a good mood, tie your dog to a secure spot in the house and get a good book to read. Sit next to your dog and ignore her. If she whines or barks, ignore her or move a short distance away. When she’s quiet, even for a moment, move closer. Your dog will soon realize that barking means you leave and quiet means you return. When she’s quiet for a few moments, you can click or say “yes” and reward her with a tiny treat. You can also praise her very calmly. 

If your dog is barking for your attention . . . 

. . simply teach her that it will have the opposite effect. 

Some dogs were specifically bred to be companions, and they may especially miss you when left at home alone. So teach them right away to tolerate and even enjoy time by themselves. 

Owner-Absent Barker 

What if your dog barks because she’s bored or stressed when left at home alone? Unfortunately, our canine friends are often left alone for long periods. Being social animals, dogs find it tough to understand why their families leave them. However, you can teach your dog to tolerate and even enjoy your absence. 

First, teach your dog to spend time alone while you’re at home. Most people make the mistake of spending all their time at home with their dogs at their sides. While this act may seem kind and loving, it only makes matters worse. Your dog will become accustomed to constant companionship and will be more likely to fall apart when you leave. 

Instead, teach your dog to enjoy quiet moments by herself while you’re at home so that she’ll feel more confident when you’re not there. Frequently and for short periods, confine your dog to another room, in her crate, or on a tie-down and give her a couple of well-stuffed chew toys to occupy her time. In fact, make a habit of giving your dog as many of her favorite things as possible (including her meals in food-dispensing toys) when you ask her to be by herself. 

It’s best not to attempt to soothe your dog when she whines. Soothing usually serves only to reward and reinforce the whining behavior. Instead, ignore your dog until she’s quiet. After ten to fifteen seconds of silence, let her know that you like this quiet behavior by praising her calmly and, if you like, by offering her a food reward. 

Dogs jump on people to say hello in an effort to be friendly, and because many dogs have not learned the requisite impulse control to manage their exuberance. Although you want your dog to be friendly with people, her excessive enthusiasm may keep friends away and make all that wonderful socialization go to waste. Your dog deserves to be taught how to greet people properly so that she can enjoy the pleasure of human company. 

Frequently, dogs are reinforced for jumping up during puppy hood. It can be quite charming for a little pup to bound up to us enthusiastically and jump all about. However, reinforcing this behavior really isn’t fair to the pup, since it is unlikely that the behavior will be deemed appropriate once she is a grown-up dog. 

Most adult dog jumping occurs when owners come home feeling guilty for having left the dog and in some cases are actually somewhat pleased that the dog is so happy to see them. Jumping up is also frequently reinforced by people outside your family who respond to your dog out of nervousness or embarrassment or because they don’t really mind the jumping since they don’t have to live with it long-term. But you do! 

Understandably, most people would prefer to be greeted by a dog who has been taught to sit to say hello. 

Until your dog learns good greeting manners, keep him on leash so that you can man- age and prevent inappropriate encounters, such as jumping.  

Teach your dog to stand or sit to greet people and you won’t have to worry about her jumping. Most important, focus on managing your dog by keeping her on leash when she greets people until she has learned how to greet politely. 

You can begin using the capturing method by simply waiting for your dog to sit and ignoring everything else she does, whether it be bouncing around or barking. The moment her rear hits the ground, say “yes” or click and offer a tiny treat. Tell her “okay” (or say whichever release word you’ve chosen) so she knows that she can get up, and then take a step away from her so she follows you to “greet” you again. Wait for the sit, and then mark and reward it. It shouldn’t take long for her to learn that sitting is the way to get rewarded. 

When she sits automatically when you stop, you’re ready to progress to more difficult greetings. Take a few more steps between sits — the more you move, the more likely your dog is to get revved up. You can also try being verbally playful with her once you stop walking. Gradually increase your enthusiasm, and eventually you should be able to be as playful as you like, and your dog should respond with an equally happy, but seated, greeting. 

This dog may learn not to jump up, but she may also learn that she doesn’t want to greet people at all. 

When you think that your dog is ready, have family members enter the front door numerous times during three- to five-minute training sessions, and then try inviting a few friends over. Have your dog’s meal or special treats ready. For each person who comes to the door, simply wait for your dog to sit, and then give her one piece of her food. If each person is kind enough to leave and come back ten times, you’ll have thirty practice sessions by inviting just three people over. If you want to speed things up a bit, lure your dog into a sit. 

People have devised all sorts of ways to physically punish dogs for jumping up, such as jerking the leash, holding the dog’s paws, stepping on the dog’s hind feet, kneeing the dog in the chest, and flipping the dog over backward. Why not just train the dog to greet people appropriately? Why not train her to sit? 

When an overly enthusiastic greeting is met with a physical punishment and/or a verbal correction, the dog may be left thinking, “I just wanted to say ‘hi.’ Wow, they must be angry at me. Let me try and make up by greeting them happily again.” Indeed, punishment often prompts your dog to jump up with renewed vigor, for which she is then met with a more severe punishment. The act of greeting people now becomes a confusing prospect. Some dogs with softer temperaments may be so confused and panicked that they begin to urinate when greeting people. What the owners perceive as a disgusting behavior is actually a way for the dog to say how submissive she feels in the face of potential punishment. 

Dogs are superbly investigative creatures who use their teeth (since they don’t have hands) to hold and manipulate things. It is normal for dogs to pick up objects and carry them about and, oftentimes, to find spots to store those objects. 

Puppies are especially likely to use their mouths to investigate and chew objects because they are programmed to learn as much as possible about the world in a very short period. Young puppies also go through the painful process of teething as they lose their baby teeth and adult teeth grow in their place. Chewing can help alleviate the pain of teething. 

The most important strategy in preventing the chewing of inappropriate items is to provide your dog with plenty of appropriate chew toys. I recommend toys that are hollow and can be stuffed with food. Also, don’t allow your dog to have too much freedom in your home before she can handle it. It is advisable to keep her on leash when you can supervise her. Avoid playing roughly or otherwise encouraging the dog to nip at hands, clothing, hair or inappropriate objects. 

Many dogs learn to see soft, comfortable areas to rest (such as your couch and bed) as valuable places that they are unlikely to relinquish readily. If you choose to permit your dog to share these resting areas with you, be sure to use preventative measures in order to avoid the unpleasant situation of having a dog who won’t get off when asked. In the worst-case scenario, a dog may growl, bark, or bite when asked to move. If this is the case, seek the assistance of a professional trainer immediately. 

The goal is to teach your dog that when she leaves a desirable spot at your re- quest, good things are likely to happen. Start with the dog on the floor as you sit on the couch. Encourage her up onto the couch. If she isn’t big enough to jump up, you can use a pillow or two or give her dog steps to step on. To get her to jump off the couch, pat the floor and encourage your dog to jump off. Click or say “yes” when she does and give her a tiny treat. It won’t take her long to realize that getting up on the couch isn’t so exciting, but jumping off when you ask her to is terrific! 

Dogs are social creatures who don’t like to be left alone. Sadly, most pet dogs spend a large part of their time by themselves. To prepare your dog to enjoy time spent at home alone, make sure that she frequently spends time by herself while you’re at home. You don’t want to set a precedent of constant companionship — this just sets your dog up to fall apart when you leave. Some dogs react to being left alone by indulging in their favorite pastimes. These might include being destructive to the home, barking, or marking the house with urine and feces. 

Many owners have difficulty ignoring their dogs during the course of the day, especially when their dogs seek attention. Interacting with the dog almost constantly becomes a habit. Instead, try using a crate or tie-down. A tie-down is a leash that can’t be chewed through that you attach to a stable object or an eye hook in the wall. The tie-down should be only about 3 feet long, just long enough for the dog to sit, lie down, stand up, and turn around. It is sort of like a crate without walls. Put a couple of food-stuffed toys in your dog’s crate or by the tie-down to give her something to do while she spends time alone.

Dogs are naturally investigative creatures; like many of us, they are always on the lookout for a tasty morsel. Therefore, it should come as no surprise that your dog might try to figure out a way to gain access to the garbage, which is surely full of delicious leftovers. 

To discourage garbage raiding, get a garbage can that has a locking lid. Or simply put the garbage can in a place your dog can’t reach, such as under the sink. If you attempt to correct your dog when you catch her raiding the can, chances are all she will learn is to avoid going on a garbage hunt when you’re around. You’ll essentially have created an owner-absent garbage hound. 

Eating feces is a distasteful habit that many dogs will engage in if given the chance. Most commonly, dogs will eat the stools of other animals. Less commonly, dogs may eat their own stools. 

The most likely cause of this habit is boredom. However, some experts suggest that it may be caused by a nutritional deficiency, so make sure that your dog’s diet is well balanced and speak with your dog’s veterinarian to rule out this possibility. 

The solution to feces eating starts with preventing your dog from having the opportunity to practice this behavior. Each time she does it, the habit becomes stronger. If you are walking in the woods with your dog, simply call her away from any stool and reward her with a treat. If you let your dog out in the yard to eliminate, go with her and clean up her stool promptly. 

Some people have had success with food additives designed to make the stools distasteful. More important, be sure to provide your dog with plenty of chew toys to keep her busy. 

Your dog has lots of reasons for wanting to dig. Digging is fun and relieves boredom. It also creates a cool place to lie in hot weather, and in some cases dogs dig to escape an enclosure. To prevent unwanted digging, don’t let your dog spend unsupervised time in the yard. Go outside and watch her play or, better yet, play with her. If you can’t supervise, bring her indoors. 

If you don’t want to ban digging altogether, you can teach your dog that it isn’t digging you dislike, but digging everywhere. Choose one spot and designate it as her digging pit. Think of it as her sandbox. Let her watch you bury a couple of tasty chew toys. Then encourage her to dig in that spot to get them out. Your dog will learn that this is the best (and only) place to dig, because it’s where the buried treasure is and because you are there to help her choose the right spot.

Terriers dig? Of course they do! Terrier comes from the word terra, meaning earth. Terriers were born and bred to dig.