Take the Jump out of That Bean
This exercise is an easy way to teach your dog to keep four feet on the ground when someone is holding food nearby. Hold a tiny treat about one foot above your dog’s head. If your dog jumps for it, quickly lift your hand out of your dog’s reach, and don’t say a word. If your dog stays standing or sits for even one second, mark this behavior with a click or by saying “yes” and give her the treat.
Because you can repeat this game so quickly, you should be able to practice many repetitions in each three- to five-minute session. It usually takes just one or two sessions for your dog to understand that jumping makes the food go away and standing or sitting makes it appear. But your goal is to teach her to do so for as long as necessary — that is, not to jump for the food at all. When your dog is keeping four paws on the ground for a count of one, you can gradually increase the time you ask her to hold the position by delaying the mark and reward. Gradually in- crease the count to two, three, four, and so on, but be careful not to go too quickly, even if you have a super-smart dog. As with every training exercise, your goal is to set a solid foundation, which is best done slowly.
Time-outs are one of the most effective punishments. They tell your dog that whatever he was doing right before it happened resulted in him losing access to anything he wants, such as treats, toys, or your attention.
As you increase the duration you ask your dog to control herself, consider in- creasing the value of the reward. Maybe try using a tastier treat. Most important, be sure to be a generous re warder. The pieces can be tiny, but should be offered frequently so that your dog learns how valuable it is to wait.
Actions Speak Louder Than Words
As a calm, gentle trainer, remind yourself that actions speak louder than words. Think of yourself as having an on/off switch that your dog can control with her behavior. Jumping, barking, and whining make you turn off, and sitting politely and waiting make you turn you on.
Wait, Please
There are two parts to teaching your dog to wait to touch food or other objects until given permission. If you practiced the anti–jumping bean exercise described above, you have already laid a foundation for this exercise.
- Teach your dog not to touch things that you are holding.
2. Teach your dog not to touch things that you place on the ground or on an- other surface.
Start with number 1. Hold a piece of food in your closed hand. Ignore your dog when she pushes at your hand to get the food. Ignore everything she does to get at it (she may paw or bark). When she stops and backs off, click or say “yes,” open your hand, and say “take it.” To begin, even a momentary retreat should be marked and rewarded.
One of the foundations of impulse control is your dog learning not to charge for his food bowl until you have given him permission.
Gradually increase the length of time you ask your dog to avoid making contact with your hand before you mark and reward. When you feel confident that she understands what is expected, you can add a cue like “leave it.” Say “leave it,” present your closed hand, wait for your dog to back off, and then open your hand and say “take it.” She’ll learn that the only way to get the food after you say “leave it” is not to touch your hand.
To teach your dog not to touch a treat (or object) placed on the floor, sit on the floor next to your dog and ask her to sit or lie down. Place a piece of food on the ground about 12 inches away from your dog. If she gets up to take it (which she surely will), simply lift the food off the floor and either ignore your dog and wait for her to sit or lie down on her own, or ask her to. Place the food back on the ground and try again. If she refrains from going toward the food for even a moment (one second will do!), mark with a click or by saying “yes,” and let her take the food. Gradually increase the length of time she is required to refrain from taking the food.
When you feel confident that your dog has a reliable understanding of and adherence to what is expected, you can start dropping the food on the ground from an inch or so above the floor. Gradually increase this distance until you are able to drop the treat from a standing position. If your pup forgets her manners and jumps up to get the food and you think you won’t be quick enough to reach down to take it away, try stepping on it!
You can also work separately on decreasing the distance the food is away from your dog. But when doing so, be sure to decrease the time. For example, if your dog has a solid fifteen-second wait while the treat is 12 inches away, start back at one or two seconds when you move the treat a few inches closer. Most dogs can master this challenge so well that you can eventually place the treat on their paw and they won’t touch it until given permission to do so.
What terrific self-control!
Yippee, You’re Here!
When your dog is confined away from you in any manner (in her crate, tethered on a leash, behind a baby gate, or in another room), teach her that the only way to get you to approach is to keep all four feet on the floor. If she jumps, turn or walk away. When she has all four feet on the floor, start approaching again. As with all teaching, it will take many repetitions for your dog to figure out that keeping four feet on the floor is the way to get you to approach. You may find yourself walking back and forth for a few minutes until your dog is able to contain her enthusiasm.
On/Off Switch
In this game, you help your dog learn to show self-control in stimulating situations, such as around children or crowds. This on/off exercise is also a great opportunity to use play as a reward for self-control.
Start by playing with your dog in very short bursts separated by short periods of lying down. To begin, short sessions are best because some dogs will become overstimulated. As your dog masters the concept that lying down calmly is the way to get the game to start again, you can vary the length of time you play and ask your dog to lie down. Calming to a less aroused state is easier for some dogs than others, so it’s important to have a good idea of what level your dog can handle and not to push her too far too fast. As with all dog-friendly training, your goal is to set your dog up to be successful.